Windows don't fail all at once -- they degrade gradually, costing you energy money for years before the problem becomes obvious. Here's how to tell when repair isn't enough.
Foggy or condensation between panes
Double and triple-pane windows have inert gas (argon or krypton) between the panes for insulation. When the seal fails, that gas escapes and moisture-laden air replaces it -- causing the permanent fogginess you can't wipe off. A failed seal means you've lost 50-70% of the insulating value of that window.
Drafts you can feel
Hold your hand around the window frame on a cold day. Any air movement means the weatherstripping or frame seal has failed. New weatherstripping costs $5-$15 per window and can fix minor drafts. If the frame itself has shrunk, cracked, or warped, replacement is the only fix.
Windows that are difficult to open or won't stay open
Wood windows swell and warp over time. Balance mechanisms in double-hung windows fail. Hardware corrodes. If opening a window takes effort, or it won't stay open without a prop, the window is past its useful life -- and a fire egress hazard.
Visible rot or damage to the frame
Wood frames that feel soft when you press them, show dark discoloration, or crumble at the corners have active rot. Rot spreads -- a rotted window frame can damage the surrounding wall framing. Once rot reaches the rough opening, the repair cost escalates significantly.
Your home was built before 1980
Windows installed before 1980 are almost certainly single-pane. Single-pane windows have an R-value of about 1 -- versus R-3 for double-pane and R-5+ for triple-pane. If you have original single-pane windows, you're losing a significant amount of heat every cold night.
Bottom line
Replace when: seals are failed, frames are rotting, or windows are single-pane originals. Repair when: the issue is just hardware, weatherstripping, or a single cracked pane.
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